January 2026. We had already spent ten days in Thailand — we passed through Chiang Mai, rode the surrounding areas by motorbike, and then continued up to Chiang Rai for the White Temple (Wat Rong Khun). A striking temple in both senses of the word, since the exterior is white and covered with countless small mirror pieces stuck all over it, so the light bounces off sharply. Inside, the murals with their hidden references to American pop culture, COVID, vaccines, and so on, fill in the rest of the picture. As a Buddhist temple it carries its own symbolism around life and death. It's an experience you really need to have up close. The temple already draws visitors from everywhere, though it's not expected to be finished for another 20–30 years.
From there we flew to Bangkok, where we stayed for three days. After the panic of the big city, we were ready for something different. I talked to my friend Antonis, who had recently traveled in Thailand, and he suggested flying to Nan Province for a four-day motorbike roadtrip — mountains, winding roads, and almost no tourists.
The Town of Nan
We flew to Nan, the main and largest town in the region. Flat, with a good grid, and the Nan River cutting through it.
The town has a lovely night market in front of Wat Phumin with small low tables, traditional food, and a nice atmosphere. On our first day there was a festival — much of the town was closed off and there were stalls everywhere selling clothes and local products.
Next stop was the bus station — that's where most of the scooter rental shops are. We rented a Yamaha NMax 150 from Motorbike Nan, with a rack on the back so we could strap on our two backpacks. They also swapped the front tire, which was worn through from use, and that was it — we were ready for the next morning.
Road conditions in Thailand
On Thailand's highways there's a lane — something like a breakdown lane — that locals use with their motorbikes to move without fear of the bigger vehicles. Cars give you space and don't tailgate. The road surface is also in very good condition, with no potholes or wear.
We left the small town and, through a maze of winding roads, reached the famous Road Number 3.
Day 1 — Nan → Bo Kluea
We set off loaded: the two backpacks on the rack, and whatever didn't fit or needed to stay safe (laptop, toiletries) under the seat. The route would take us as far as Bo Kluea.
We left the small town and wound through a maze of roads until we reached the famous Road Number 3 — named after the shape of a three it traces when seen from one particular point. The start of one of the best-known motorbike rides in northern Thailand.
Approaching Bo Kluea, we came off the main road and took the parallel one that runs through the rice fields. The village is full of small guesthouses; if you haven't booked already (Bo Kluea is relatively expensive by Thai standards), you just ask right there on the spot. We stayed at Sanae at Bo Kluea — small glamping-style rooms next to the river. Prices are always better through Agoda.
The name "Bo Kluea" means "salt well" in Thai. They've been producing salt from underground brine springs here for over 800 years — unique in the world, because it happens in the mountains, far from the sea. Nine wells used to operate; today two are left.
Salt from the mountains, not from the sea. Eight hundred years now of continuous "extraction".
Next to the wells there's a small market with salt products. The area is very close to the Laos border, and historically the salt was traded to Sukhothai, Luang Prabang, Sipsongpanna, and southern China.
In the afternoon we went out for another walk around the area, but by the time we got back night had already fallen. Everything was closed, so we ended up eating at a 7/11 — the only place still open at that hour.
Day 2 — Sapan → Doi Phu Kha 1715 → Pua
We woke up in Bo Kluea next to the river, surrounded by rice fields. We loaded the motorbike and set off for nearby Sapan, specifically for the three-tiered waterfall inside Khun Nan National Park. The first tier is thirty steps from the parking, and for the third it's a twenty-minute hike through the forest.
After a lunch break at a spot with a view over all the mountains, we continued the hard ride toward Pua. The route goes along Highway 1256 — essentially you backtrack from Sapan to Bo Kluea and carry on from there.
The road is steep and climbs up to Doi Phu Kha Viewpoint 1715 — the name comes from its elevation, 1,715 metres. Continuous curves with light traffic, cutting through Doi Phu Kha, Thailand's largest national park. The 150cc proved reliable, though on some of the climbs it struggled quite a bit.
After a short break at the viewpoint, the descent begins — at least forty minutes that need some attention. Past small rivers and thick vegetation, until we finally reached the base of the mountain on a fertile plain and saw the small town of Pua open up ahead of us between the mountains.
We stayed in rooms right next to cornfields, and the view from the room was one of the best of the trip.
We spent the afternoon wandering the town. Locals playing petanque in open lots and squares — a game of French origin that's become a national sport in Thailand. How it works: first they throw a small wooden target ball, the cochonnet (or "jack"), then they throw metal balls, the boules, trying to land their own as close to it as possible. When the balls are too close to call, they measure the distances with a tape.
For dinner we sat at a local place that sold beer and grilled skewers outside — meat and fish. After the beer we ate at a small local spot and went back to the room.
Day 3 — Back to Nan
The third day was quiet. We passed through various points of interest around the town, stopped at a small café set among fields full of lemon trees, and started back on provincial roads, through the villages. Three hours later we were back in Nan, where we were staying just outside town.
A short rest — the sun and the motorbike wear you down — and we went out again for a walk. Back to the night market for sushi, then beer at a few bars around town. The next day we rode to the airport to fly to Bangkok — next stop on the trip was Taiwan.
