The Road to the "Fortress of God"
If you find yourself in Georgia, there are certain places you simply cannot skip. Uplistsikhe is one of them — an ancient cave city in the eastern part of the country. We drove from Gori, the town where Stalin was born and which was bombed relentlessly during the brief war of 2008.
The First Impression
The moment you arrive, you're confronted by enormous caves hollowed out of the rock. This is no ordinary cave — it's an entire ghost city, frozen in time.
The History of the City
The name Uplistsikhe translates roughly as "The Fortress of God" (or of the Lord). It has been inhabited since the 2nd millennium BC, and served as the pagan, religious, and political center of the ancient kingdom of Iberia. Today it is considered the oldest human settlement in Georgia.
Wandering the Labyrinth
As you go deeper in, you walk through corridors and vast halls that people carved by hand into the sandstone of the hills. It is a genuine labyrinth. Looking carefully at the interior caves, you can make out carved columns and geometric patterns on the ceilings — evidence of how rich and advanced this society was at its peak.
The Secret Tunnel
One of the most striking features is a dark tunnel that leads you straight out to the river. It was a hidden escape route — or water supply line — for times of siege. If you go, keep in mind that you'll need around 2 hours if you want to explore the whole site and climb to the highest point.
The Temple That Survived
When Christianity took hold in Georgia, the pagan city began its gradual decline. At the very top of the rock stands a 9th-century Orthodox basilica. What is remarkable is that this church continued to function for centuries, even after the rest of Uplistsikhe had been abandoned.
The Assembly Halls
What truly impresses is the scale of certain rooms. These are vast, semi-open chambers carved into the hillside, most likely used as assembly halls or reception spaces for dignitaries. Excavations have brought everyday objects to light beneath the rock strata, confirming just how long people lived and gathered in these remarkable spaces.
Destruction and Abandonment
Whatever time had spared was leveled — as in so many places across the world at that era — by the Mongols in the 14th century. The final, heavy blow came from nature itself, many centuries later: the catastrophic earthquake of 1920 brought down several of the ceilings that were still standing.
Uplistsikhe Today
As far back as the 1950s, Uplistsikhe had become a popular tourist destination, and in 2007 it was added to the UNESCO list as a protected monument. The site is actively maintained and draws visitors year-round, with the busiest season in the warmer months.
A Window into the Past
Visiting Uplistsikhe was unmistakably a journey back in time. From the top, the view of the Kura River and the surrounding mountains was imposing — a reminder of why this ancient settlement mattered.
