Guardians of the Past: The Svan Towers of Ushguli

Ushguli, a remote cluster of villages in Georgia’s Upper Svaneti region, sits at the foot of Mount Shkhara, the highest peak in the country. It’s also known as the highest continuously inhabited village in Europe. The village is famous for its Svan towers—stone defensive structures built between the 9th and 12th centuries, a reminder of its rich history and resilience.

I visited Ushguli in early October 2024 during an unusually warm autumn. The snow-capped peaks in the distance contrasted sharply with the golden fields below, creating a landscape I’ll never forget.

Farming is still at the heart of life here. Everyone seemed busy—tending to their animals or working the land. Tourism has started to trickle in, but it hasn’t overtaken the community’s way of life. It’s clear that Ushguli is still deeply connected to its roots.

The journey to Ushguli is easier now. Recent road improvements, like the newly paved route from Mestia and the road through the Zagaro Pass to Lentheki, make it more accessible. The drive itself is incredible—miles of untouched nature that make you want to stop and take it all in.

This series is my take on Ushguli. From its people to its landscapes and timeless architecture, it’s a place I’d love to return to, maybe in a different season, to see what else it has to offer.